It only takes one small event to destroy the goodwill of hundreds of events.
goodwill can be earnt by great deeds
It only takes one small event to destroy the goodwill of hundreds of events.
goodwill can be earnt by great deeds
I have bought a great number of items from eBay, all using PayPal.
I enjoy the convenience, security and peace of mind.
I have never had an issue or a reason to question/dispute a transaction until now.
It only takes one small event to destroy the goodwill of hundreds of events.
I purchased something from overseas. It had Buyer protection and the seller was eBay/PayPal certified.
On the eBay page it even said to make sure I used a certified seller to be covered by PayPal protection.
The item never arrived. The seller did ship it and can provide shipping information from Germany.
It got on a plane about 90 days ago and never made it to Australia.The Australian Customs and shipping partner has no record of it leaving the plane. It is not here and it lost.
I raised a dispute with PayPal. I am not disputing that the item was not sent, rather that I never got it. Covered by insurance? No. The dispute has been closed because the German version of PayPal does not require proof of delivery.
They only need proof of shipping in the first place and then their job is done.
So what do I do? I lose the money, I don’t have the item and have wasted countless hours looking into this. I am out of pocket.
This is a very unfair system. The communication emails from PayPal did not explain any of this. I had to ring on numerous times until someone worked out that the German PayPal terms and conditions was why the dispute was awarded against me.
The item had been shipped so therefore it is now my fault that the item has gone missing and it is my burden.
As I said,
It only takes one small event to destroy the goodwill of hundreds of events.
I will no longer use PayPal. This hit my wallet too hard to forget quickly.
Mar 7
Posted by mickyj in IT | No Comments
I had a client return a laptop with failing services
The Windows update and search service will not start. This was a HP laptop and recently had an upgrade from a Seagate 640 Gb 2.5″ sata drive to a 750 Gb WD 2.5″ sata drive.
It turns out that even though I found no evidence of the “Intel rapid storage technology” drivers or software installed, the solution was to update this.
I downloaded and installed “Intel rapid storage technology” from the following site http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?docname=c02219204&cc=nl&lc=en&dlc=en&product
WD drives between 750 Gb to 1 Tb on this laptop will fail with the default Intel driver. As the Device manager does not list this device as installed, I downloaded and tried this regardless and it worked.
This was after I had completed hours of research and tried many other things. I am posting this in the hope it saves someone else time.
I attempted to delete the search indexes and the Update catalogues. I changed folder permissions and registry keys. I reinstalled Search. Nothing made a difference.
I referred to
Some of the errors in the logs were
Log Name: Application
Source: Microsoft-Windows-CAPI2
Date: 13/02/2013 11:45:19 AM
Event ID: 257
Task Category: None
Level: Error
Keywords: Classic
User: N/A
Computer: PC
Description:The Cryptographic Services service failed to initialize the Catalog Database. The ESENT error was: -583.
Log Name: Application
Source: Microsoft-Windows-Search
Date: 13/02/2013 1:48:28 PM
Event ID: 1006
Task Category: Search service
Level: Error
Keywords: ClassicUser: N/A
Computer: PC
Description:
The Windows Search Service has failed to create the new search index. Internal error <4, 0x8004117f, Failed to add project: C:\ProgramData\Microsoft\Search\Data\Applications\Windows\Projects>.
I have some issues with a client adding “Public Folders” to favorites within Outlook 2010 (Exchange 2010). If you add a Calendar or Contact folder to favorites it appears in the favorite list but it you sort by Calendar or Contact, it is not listed.
You right click the Public folder and select “Add to Favorites” , it prompts for a name and then appears to add it, but it does not actually appear in the list.
The common answer to this issue is that the Profilename.xml file in “C:\Users\username\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Outlook” is corrupt and start Outlook with the /ResetNavPane switch.
The problem is, running this also kills all linked shared calendars, shortcuts and favorites. The /ResetNavPane switch seems to delete the xml file and likely does other things to the mailbox or registry.
I have reviewed the possibly faulty XML file with corrupted settings, it looks no different to a working one. I have tried to work out what the file does, line by line but there is no real explanation online of the settings.
I manually removed the xml file of my C:\ drive (without running /resetnavpane) and the problem was fixed and I lost no shared calendars or Favorites.
It appears that the config file is not the cause of the issue. It is another symptom and might not be the corruption. Looking in this file for the answer is fruitless as it seems Outlook does not read from this file, it writes it out to the file system when you exit Outlook.
I can open Outlook without this config file, add a whole heap of favorites and the config file does not get created until I leave Outlook.
Very curious.
I found a possible work around and it is as follows:
Close outlook. Rename the config xml file. Reopen Outlook and test you can add to favorites. Vlose Outlook. Rename the original config file back to it’s old name and open Outlook. The testing I have done seems to indicate that this fixes the issue and retains the shared Calendars and all other settings.
I suspect the XML file is a backup of the Favorite settings or maybe it only controls favorites from the personal mailboxes or PST’s. The Public Folder favorites might actually be folders created at the Exchange end and work differently. Maybe the settings are stored on the server in the database ?
There is very little info so this is all conjecture.
Tags: Outlook
Whilst trying to solve an issue, I strayed into the folder “c:\users\username\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Outlook”.
I can see the profile.xml, Outlprnt and profile.srs files. I know what they are.
*.srs - send/receive settings for the email profile
*.xml - This file holds customization settings for the Navigation Pane in Outlook 2003 and later. Most notable settings are, Favorite Folders, Shortcuts from the Shortcuts Navigation and opened shared folder lists in the Calendar, Contacts, Tasks and Notes and Journal Navigation.
Outlprnt – This file contains the print style settings.
See more here http://www.howto-outlook.com/howto/filesandsettings.htm
What is the PB4S-Configuration-name@domain.xml file ?
I find very little about this file and it’s settings online. It turns out that this is the Outlook Protection rules file. If you have assigned Outlook Protection rules or your server supports this feature, this file contains the information needed to apply it. In basic terms what is Outlook Protection rules ? I view it like DRM for email. (Digital Rights Management).
Basically rules about who you can forward types of emails to, what access you have to reply etc. Maybe it should be called Email Rights Management
Tags: Outlook
Jan 12
Posted by mickyj in Hobbies, Photography, Uncategorized | 7 Comments
** Companion Video for this post is up on YouTube at http://youtu.be/UrvViq2Y7OE
The first question I get is .. why?
Then I get told “Don’t Bother”.
The “Don’t Bother” is understandable. Almost anyone who takes UV photos uses a Nikon. Those that tried Canon got low contrast images, stopped down with large exposure times. Nikon exposures look great. I am a Canon man and I am going to see what I can do with Canon (Although I concede that Nikon may do this better and faster).
The “why” is simple. I want to see a part of the spectrum and patterns on items, outside of our normal view. Bees as an example, can see down to 300nm in near UV. Bees can see Nectar guides on flowers and navigate using images we can’t see. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nectar_guide
Living in Australia, beaten and sunburnt by the sun, I have a great opportunity to photograph in UV almost all year round. To help with the why, check out some sample photos. These are from LifePixel. A company that will modify your camera for you. http://www.lifepixel.com/galleries/uv-ultraviolet-photography-gallery�
(There are a few other options for ordering modifications throughout this post).
Here is one of my own images. This is a pure yellow flower.
More examples of UV photos and their Visual comparisons are available on Flickr
In the end, I want to photograph flowers in UV. They will not nessessarily be the best photos I have ever taken however will show items in a different light. This is going to be a challenge.
Modern camera’s and lenses are designed to reduce/remove UV from photos. UV also has different focus to visible light. Digital camera’s have limitations in their CCD / CMOS sensors. The sensors are covered with pass/block filters. Camera lenses are made from glass elements that can block UV and lenses can have multi coatings to remove UV. Everything is designed to prevent UV from getting into your photos. On top of these issues, camera response can be slow due to the lack of light entering the sensor and framing via the viewfinder is impossible. Live view can help somewhat.
So what is Ultraviolet (UV) and what am I trying to photograph? It is called Near UV. The Spectrum between 300nm – 400nm.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet�
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultraviolet_photography
Only near UV is of interest for UV photography. Ordinary air is opaque to wavelengths below about 200 nm, and lens glass is opaque below about 180 nm. UV photographers subdivide the near UV spectrum into
So what can we do from here? Starting with the Camera.
The Nikon CCD camera’s, like the D70, are great for UV photos (Without modification). These and others in the range are recommended. I am using a Canon EOS 600d. Why am I not just going with a Nikon? (People have tested the Nikon and it works. People have tested the Canon and it was terrible!) I have an investment in Canon. I aim to use this camera with my other accessories. A full spectrum Camera would be of most use. I can use it for UV, IR or other. I can’t find people posting information on current Canon camera’s so I am taking the plunge. Most Nikons have moved from CCD to CMOS so now the brand is not a real differentiator. Silicon is the limiter.
This will be the first real web post/discussion on Canon and UV from an exploratory point of view, where the Canon will not be straight out dismissed.
Limitations in the SiCmos
So the first place to look at is the Silicon CMOS (SiCMOS) sensor. I have seen reports that the Canon EOS 1000d sensor can image the spectrum down to 380nm. The Canon EOS 60a apparently goes down to 200 nm (I was unofficially told by Canon technical support) but I doubt you can take a photo of anything that low. The EOS 7d, 60d, 600d, 550d all have the same sensor and reportedly go down to 305nm. I am picking the 600d, being the cheapest that is readily available to me in this range.
IR Block Filters
Now in front of the CMOS are the IR block and UV block filters (ICF/AA) and the sensor cleaning assembly. These need to be removed.
Choices for replacement of the filters (To maintain focus) include the Astronomik MC clear glass, Baader Clear glass, WG280, Schott WG-280, BK-7 and many others. All of these replace the block filters and make the camera full spectrum. The issue is that no matter how good the glass is, it can block some of the spectrum. Ordinary glass is partially transparent to UVA but is opaque to shorter wavelengths, whereas silica or quartz glass, depending on quality, can be transparent even to vacuum UV wavelengths. Ordinary window glass passes about 90% of the light above 350 nm, but blocks over 90% of the light below 300 nm When getting a conversion/modification, make sure to do your research.
There are many good modders out there and many dodgy ones. Take a look at these examples of bad work http://www.lifepixel.com/wall-of-shame
There are some good professional outfits like MaxMax, LifePixel, Spencers Camera and photo, HyperCams and many more. They can all mod your camera. For general mod’s of existing cameras or 2nd hand ones (IR, Full spectrum) look up cptconforti (Marcelo) on eBay.
To give myself the best chance, I want to go with a full spectrum clear medium in from of the CMOS that far exceeds the capabilities of the CMOS. I have selected Spectrosil fused silica (Quartz) which goes down to 180 nm.
This rules out the qualities of the Glass/polishing and means that the limitations are then the lens and CMOS sensor. http://heraeus-quarzglas.com/media/webmedia_local/downloads/broschren_mo/Spectrosil_syntheticfusedsilica.pdf
If you want to do the same, look up eeassa (Ehab) on eBay. http://stores.ebay.com.au/Digital-Landscapes I can’t recommend eeassa and cptconforti enough. They have listened to my questions and tried to find solutions. They are both very proud of their work. cptconforti is also a photographer.
Here is one of the listings and it uses the Spectrosil
Many of the professional modders have offered to convert the camera to UV. This would leave me with a camera I can use by viewing through the viewfinder and snapping images but I am limited in spectrum. Going full spectrum I need to fit a UV filter to the lens and I can’t line up my image through the viewfinder as all visible light will be blocked.
MaxMax convert some cameras to monochrome removing the CFA and microlenses which greatly increases the UV sensitivity. They have done this with Canon.
The lens
Now I need to worry about the lens. Lenses contain glass. I can spend a huge amount of money and hunt down a purpose built Nikor Quartz lens (UV-Nikkor 105mm f/4.5s )
http://www.company7.com/nikon/lens/0105f4.5uv.html or get a lens that will not be as good as the Quartz lens, but will work enough for my amateur needs. Modern Standard lenses normally have many elements which block UV. They also have coating’s to prevent UV transmission. The Canon lenses with very few elements might allow light down to 350 nm through.
You can get a normal lens and remove the coating on the front/rear element (A quick way to destroy a good and expensive piece of glass). You need some material, plenty of abrasive polishing cream, and loads of time. The side effect might be a low contrast image. You end up with a nice soft focus lens. If you want to do this, take a look here
http://www.naturfotograf.com/UV_IR_rev05.html
Alternatively to destroying your lens, you can setup a bellows system and get some Nikkor EL enlarger lenses. These were used in the film days for enlarging images onto film from negatives. They pass a considerable amount of UV. Here are some reviewed for you
http://savazzi.freehostia.com/photography/el-nikkor_uv.htm
If you do this, make sure your bellows does not leak IR etc.
Focus
The next issue is focus. Camera’s are set to focus in the normal visible light spectrum. UV focuses at a slightly different position.
That is why older lenses have UV markings in red on them. This focus shift is an issue. Some Nikon lenses have very small Focus shift.
e.g. Nikon EL-Nikkor 80MM 5.6 Enlarger Lens
Filter
As this is a full spectrum camera (my reference camera for this exercise) I need to now block all light except UV. I need a UV pass, all other light block. Many of these types of filters leak IR. You can get filters from MaxMAx. Also there is Schott UG1, UG11, UG11x, Hoya U-360, B+W 403,Baader U “venus” filters.
I have gone with a Baader U telescope filter. This passes 320nm – 390nm. Another good choice is the Astrodon
http://www.astrodon.com/products/filters/uvenus_filter/
Just be sure to get the stepup/step down filter rings you need to mount the filter. The best responce is with the yellow side to the CMOS sensor
Setup
Now my setup is
Tricks
Focus experiments
I found using the 75mm lens I could get the lens base mounted 22mm from the camera using Macro tiubes and could focus on items at 184 cm. Using a Bellows the lens base mounts at 36 mm from the camera and focus is at approx 16 cm.
Additional material
Klaus is a well respected person working with UV. Check out his pages http://photographyoftheinvisibleworld.blogspot.com/2011/01/simple-tutorial-for-reflected-uv.html
David Kennard has some good information at http://www.davidkennardphotography.com/blog/811-ultraviolet-and-multispectral-photography.xhtml
Learn more about UV black and White conversions and the removal of the CFA and microlenses with MaxMax http://maxmax.com/b&w_conversion.htm
Learn more about UV with Enrico Savazzi http://savazzi.freehostia.com/photography/uv.htm and check out the lenses he has tried http://savazzi.freehostia.com/photography/el-nikkor_uv.htm
Update 13 Jan 2013
I fitted the El Nikkor 50mm F/4 (34.5mm front filter thread) to the M39 adaptor today. The Canon Full spectrum camera was calibrated to focus at 50 mm. The M39 adaptor and lens fitted direct to the front of the Camera.
This gave pin sharp focus at infinity in the visual spectral range. As I do not have a filter stepup/step down for a 34.5 mm thread, I had to hold the Baader U 2″ over the front of the lens. I could not see if there was any focus shift in UV but I assume it is there.
Viewing the photos later did not show a focus shift with this lens. If the photo was not taken at infinity, there might be a different story.
I also tried the Nikon EL-Nikkor 80MM 5.6 Enlarger Lens. Screwing this to the M39 adaptor and then mounting to macro tubes and then the camera, did not acheive focus. Unscrewing the lens from the M39 a few turns, gave me focus. I will need to work out a plan for focus. I only need the lens to be a few mm further from the camera to get focus.
Tags: Camera, Canon, DSLR, Ultraviolet, UV


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