Event Viewer errors..

I have four of them, all appearing in the last 24 hours, all ongoing, and all are the Kernel-Power ID137 type. The Kernel-Power error occurs when there is what the system sees as a sudden shutdown, and is not the type of error which causes problems. It is always the after effects of a problem. I am not concerned about it.

The errors always start with me putting my computer into hibernation, and quite why it sees hibernation as an error, I honestly don’t know, but it does.

The error itself has no bad effect on the computer from a user standpoint and other than putting an entry into Event Viewer, there is no outward indication. No further investigation is requires, and I take no notice of it other than to tell you.

There are lots of errors recorded in Event Viewer sometimes, but what you might not realise is that many of the errors are rectified as Windows gets into step. What Windows doesn’t do is erase reported errors even though the issue may be fixed in the next part of the boot sequence.

My advice: Use Event Viewer sparingly. It’s results can be confusing and need to be seen in conjunction with other entries. It offers no one click or multiple click fixes. For the most part, it confirms what the user already knows, that being the computer is working well or not working well..


Command Prompt..

It’s just a little black window, and typing in a command and pressing <enter> to execute the command can see lines of unintelligible stuff flow by very quickly indeed. This is it’s downfall for the uninitiated and computer illitertati.

There are not too many dangerous tasks which Command Prompt can host in its default state, but when initiated in ‘run as administrator’ mode, it can be lethal and unstoppable.

My advice: Unless you understand consequences, have the knowledge, and know how to extricate yourself and your computer from the depths of despair, do not go near Command Prompt because you have heard that you can force changes by using it..


Tune Ups..

If you want to tune something, buy a guitar. Do not attempt to tune up your computer. Despite what you might hear from some computer users, Windows knows far more about ‘best settings’ than you will ever know, and considerably more than any suite of utilities making the claim that it can make your computer run better.

In commercial use, a computer may be altered to run one specific task, but this scenario is a long way away from a computer used for a range of differing tasks

If you find that a program or application will not run or runs badly, it is either incompatible with the operating system in some way or the hardware resources available are simply not enough for best case performance.

My advice: If you want good performance, do not buy a budget computer, do not change Windows settings, and never ever use anything which promises a one click fix..


Heat sensing utilities..

Ask me how hot your computer should be at rest and when doing tasks, and I will come back at you and ask how long a piece of string should be. There is no correct or right answer, but one thing is for sure. When your computer starts to cut out suddenly because it is getting too hot, you have a problem.

I use Speedfan to tell me what is happening, and I know that computer is running well. Presently, this is what is happening inside..

  1. CPU (AMD) = 33°C. This can rise very quickly indeed, but in a clean state, it will drop back very quickly too. Mine has a huge twin fan and large heat sink attached. Expect an Intel processor to hover around 50°C or more on a standard manufacturer supplied fan/heat sink assembly
  2. GPU (video) = 41°C. This is a 3rd party card with no cooling of its own, just fins. However, my case has a special fitment that allows for an 80mm fan to blow directly across the video card. If I was playing a game, I would expect to see it peak in the high 50’s, low 60’s at times..
  3. HD0 = 31°C. This is the primary drive (boot). Hard drives are not designed to work in environments beyond 45°C, and neither of mine do. The drive enclosure has a 120mm fan on either side, one pushing and one pulling. Laptops are not like this and the drive can often run at over 50°C. In cases like this, place your laptop on a cooler base and get the main and only fan cleaned out.
  4. HD1 = 30°C. As above..
  5. Northbridge chipset = 31°C. This shows ambient temperature in the case really, and laptops do not record this, only desktops
  6. Southbridge chipset = 29°C. As above

Note that my tower has ample cooling, is not in a particularly enclosed space, and is not doing very much at all. Were I to start an intensive game, the first two would shoot up. If I was to run a disk check, 3 and 4 would rise, and if I was pushing the machine to its absolute limits, all would rise.

Laptops see temperature changes fluctuate far more because there is little free air around them, are expected to work with the air intakes partially or completely blocked. With only one fan, it is amazing that they stay as cool as they do.

My advice: By all means run Speedfan or similar, but only pay particular attention if temperatures stay high. Peaks are fine and to be expected. It is when the peaks level out like a high altitude plateau that you should start to worry..


In conclusion: Utilities which run checks are great, but don’t let them get to you. Use the results at any one time as a benchmark, and if the numbers start to rise and stay there, it is time to do something about it. Don’t lose sleep and don’t install anything which promises to fix everything. Ask people who know, and I mean ‘who know’, not those who think that they know..